Naples: Of moods, mafia and melancholy

We took a day trip to Naples, driving a few hours in a rattly old car and snacking on the dried figs that Chris' aunt had stashed away for us. The radio hummed and crackled with jaunty Italian tunes as we giggled and sang our way across the pot-holed highway, our fingers sticky and our blood sugar soaring. It was a clear sunny day, rich with promise, and as we turned off the highway I couldn't